Home Away From Home

       The weather has turned colder and the leaves are changing colors.  As Ben and I pull off the Slade exit for Red River Gorge, we have arrived home.  The beautiful rolling hills and bright orange trees make this one of the most beautiful places to be in the fall.  People come from all over the world to visit the amazing rock climbing and hiking that the Red has to offer, and we live only 2.5 hours away.
       I use the word home to describe the Red because that is exactly what it is, a home away from home.  I have been going to the Red for 18 years now and each time I pull off the exit, I am excited to be back to such a familiar place.  Fairly new to climbing, my dad and I started going down to the Red when I was about 11.  The Red has always been more than just a place to climb for me.  When I was young, it was my outlet, a place to get away from the regular life I lived.  I could forget about the meanness of junior high and be in this place that was beautiful, doing something I loved and spending time with my dad.  We would leave early in the morning to make the drive down, climb some of our favorite pitches, head to Miguel's for a delicious pizza or pizza sandwich, and camp in one of the front spots.  Miguel's was not as crowded back then and there was maybe 15-20 tents compared to over a hundred now.  It was a special thing for a father and daughter to do together and some wonderful memories that will never be forgotten.

Dad and I climbing in the PMRP

       As I became a little older, I was competing in the JCCA and, like most competition kids, did not climb as much outside.  During this time I still went to camps at the Red with my team, however, and continued to make memories.  My climbing friends became my best friends, whether they knew it or not, and helped me through some very difficult times that typical early teenage girls go through.  One of them became an inspiration to me, somewhat of a mentor, as I looked up to her amazing talent in rock climbing and in life.  Our parents even threw us a surprise double birthday party at a cabin in Cliffview for my 15th and her 16th birthday.  Lots of friends piled in this cabin to celebrate our birthdays and some of the people who attended I still see down at the Red today.
       My spring breaks in high school were not spent in Cancun or Destin, but with a small group of girls and my dad in a cabin at the Red.  We would climb some, eat lots and stay up late into the night laughing and talking.  Sometimes we would camp and go on night hikes under the stars.  It was wonderful to be able to share this special place with my friends and give them a glimpse into what my life as a climber had been and still was.

Spring break at the Red with my high school girls

      When Ben and and I met many years later, I hadn't been climbing much.  One of our first trips together was with our mutual friend Grady and we could barely climb 5.10, but we had a lot of fun.  From that point on, Ben and I were making trips down to the Red every week, getting to know each other, climbing and making new memories together.  Soon after, my dad started having his birthday at the Red where our whole family would travel down to hike, climb, and enjoy each other's company.  
       The community at the Red always has been and will remain one of my favorite things about this place.  Ben and I were recently at the Motherlode and stayed 3 hours past when we finished climbing because we kept running into more friends along the way.  We have met people from all over the world and made many lasting friendships.  People invite us into their homes, offer us food, and we always see familiar faces at the Rockhouse or Miguels where we stop for dinner after a long day of climbing.
       There are so many reasons why Ben and I call the Red home, but getting to know each other better and falling in love there is definitely at the top.  My 11-year old self in rainbow-striped leggings and pigtails has grown to make more memories at the Red throughout the past 18 years than she could have imagined.  What once started out as a special place between my father and I (and still is), and then between Ben and I, will hopefully be a place that we can take our future family and let our kids make their own special memories as they grow and find their "home" at the Red.    

Accidents Happen

      When you climb outside, you start to hear about unfortunate incidents happening.  Sometimes fatal, and sometimes not, accidents can happen among the newest climbers or the most experienced climbers.  I have heard stories of friends on climbs realizing their knot isn't finished, ropes being cut on quickdraws, and people decking (falling to the ground) from high points up on the rock.  Ben and I had never been involved in anything like this until this past weekend.
       I have always felt safe climbing with Ben. I trust him and he trusts me. It helps that he has been a paramedic for over 5 years now.  He always keeps a medic bag in the car in case of accidents, which I have complained about taking up too much space on trips.  He is extremely good at what he does and knows how to act in extreme situations.   
      We made a day trip to Red River Gorge on Friday and climbed at the Motherlode, a cliff known for having high routes, some topping out at 130 feet.  After warming up, we headed over to put the quickdraws up on a mini project we had started working on.  Upon finishing the route, Ben quickly lowered me and let me know that he thought a climber had fallen near the Madness Cave area and he was going to check it out.

The Motherlode at Red River Gorge

      I untied from the rope, grabbed the keys in case the medic bag was needed and followed behind him.  I hadn't heard anything. Since I was up on the route and focused, I was unsure about what we would find.
      When I finally reached the area, I saw a familiar face. An experienced climber within the Red community was laying on the ground, conscious, but in pain with climbers surrounding him.  The climber had been lowering from a long climb and was lowered off the end up of his rope into a steep ravine.  By the looks of the rope on the belayer's end (towards the rock), it appeared the climber had fallen somewhere between 30-40 feet, but the actual distance was unknown.  The local EMS crew had already been called via a climber's cell phone and they were on their way.  Ben assessed the situation, and sent me along with two others running down the trail to get the medic bag from the car.  Upon receiving the bag, Ben was able to wrap a broken wrist and help keep the patient comfortable.  He did further assessments and determined there had been no loss of pulse, motor or sensory in his legs, a tool to check for spinal injury. Also, no abnormal findings in his pupils when shined with a light, checking for a head injury. There was tenderness in the back but not on the spine, and the climber was having no trouble breathing which lessened the chance of tension pneumothorax.
      When the EMS crew arrived, they brought a backboard and a litter which would be used to carry the climber out on the steep trail back to the ambulance.  Once ready, 8-10 climbers, Fire and EMS came together and carried the patient, packaged in the litter back down the trail.  The path was slick and narrow, but we took turns, switching in and out to get the patient down safely.  Once we reached the bottom, 4 members from the Fire and EMS department got into the small creek so we could safely transport the patient over the narrow bridge to the parking area where the ambulance was located.  The patient was safely in the ambulance and the climbers stayed to make sure no more help was needed.
      After the ambulance left, we all stood in the parking lot, first debriefing about what had just happened, and then breaking into more personal conversations, getting to know one another better.  It was incredible to see the way that 8 climbers from all over the country came together to help out one of their own in a critical situation.  Each person brought something different to the table: some having big wall experience, making a haul system to help get the patient out of the ravine, fast runners to get supplies quickly from the car to make the patient more comfortable, everyones strong arms to carry the patient down from the crag, and Ben's skills as a paramedic allowed him to control the scene until the local crews arrived.  Ben and I got to know most of the climbers well throughout the day and I don't think we could have asked for a better group to help out.  We even enjoyed dinner at the Rockhouse with two of them later that evening, one of which went on to send his first 13a Hoofmaker later that day. Congrats Tim!
      Reflecting back on this situation, I have so much respect for my husband and am so proud of him for what he does.  I have seen him work on multiple medical mission trips and he works full time as a firefighter/paramedic, but to see him in action out at the crag was indescribable.  He was patient, calm, and knew exactly what needed to be done. He checked to be sure nothing serious was happening on the inside of the patient, not just what appeared on the outside.  Also, he is one of the most humble people I know and wouldn't take credit for anything that happened.  He denied doing anything more than the rest of the 8 climbers who had helped.

Ben working at a near fatal car accident in 2010

         Accidents can happen, regardless of your climbing ability, and they can be fatal.  We were very lucky to have such a great group and crew that helped out with this situation and can only hope that climbers will continue to step up when their fellow climber is in need.  Things can happen when you least expect them, so be safe. No matter how many times you may have climbed a route or been to the area.  Please be cautious, be sure to double check yourselves before going up a route and always knot both sides of your rope.  Be friendly to the climbers around you, they could be the ones coming to your rescue.  We are a community of people who share a common passion, rock climbing.  Let's be a community who helps each other without a second thought, especially during those times of deepest need. And, I will never complain about the medic bag taking up too much room again!



   

A Competitive Side

      Competition.  It motivates us and drives us.  I will admit that I am a very competitive person.  Can you relate?  Ever since I can remember, everything has been a competition to me. No matter what it was or who I was up against. Growing up I played lots of different sports and always wanted to be the best in all of them.  I was competitive in tennis, playing since I was four and varsity all through high school.  I was competitive with skiing, wanting to go down every double black I could find regardless of what my skills were, even if that involved sliding all the way down on my butt.  I am competitive in school and am always checking my test grades as soon as they are posted to see if I had the highest grade.  And of course, I am competitive in climbing.

      I'm not sure when I got to the point of being so competitive.  I am told how much I am like my father, who is a six time ironman competitor, has run 30 plus marathons and always times his training sessions on his watch to see how fast they are.  I imagine at some point from growing up in an athletic family I picked up the idea that I wanted to be the best at whatever it is I do, no matter how unrealistic it might be.

Winning second in my first triathlon circa 1990's

      When Ben and I began climbing together, he was a stronger boulderer than me but we were very similar in the routes we were able to do.  As we kept climbing together, we were improving at about the same rate and projected all the same routes.  Ben might send something first one trip and vice versa the next .  It is wonderful to be able to climb the same routes and work on things together, but it does lead to a little competition.  I am always happy for Ben when he sends a route, especially something that he has been working on for awhile.  It is difficult, however, when it's something I still have not done.  The pressure kicks in telling me I need to do it now, or the frustration that if he did it why I have still not done it?  

      I think this leads to a good point. When does competition and a competitive mindset become too much?  I am very guilty of comparing myself to others.  It can be comparing myself to people I know, or someone I just see out climbing on a trip or in the gym.  It can be a girl or guy, but it is definitely more prevalent with girls.  It is one of the worst things you can do to yourself to improve and reach a goal that YOU are trying to make.  However, time after time I continue to watch people and compare myself.  I have improved some with this, although there is still work to be done.  

      I have been trying to teach myself recently that focusing on myself and my own goals is most important regardless of what others are doing.  This applies to climbing or anything in life.  I am never going to be the best female rock climber in the world, an olympic gymnast (as I had hoped when I was young) or the smartest person in every class I take.  It doesn't matter how hard another girl climbs, what grade someone else gets on a test or who else I see going down a double black bowl run.  As long as I am trying my hardest and doing my best, that is all I can do and that is what should be most important to me.

Finishing the Pike's Peak Half Marathon Ascent in 2000

A Passion to Serve

      Besides rock climbing, Ben and I share another passion that is a part of who we are, helping and serving others.  Ben does this everyday in his career as a firefighter/paramedic and I am hoping to do this as a Physician's Assistant.
      One person who I admire and deeply inspires me is professional rock climber Paige Claassen.  Paige has done some of the hardest female ascents around the world.  She decided to use her passion for climbing to raise awareness for other issues around the world by going on a year long trip beginning last July called the Lead Now Tour.  Paige traveled around the world, beginning in South Africa and eventually finishing in the U.S., raising money for women and children worldwide with an organization called Half the Sky Movement.  Each month, Lead Now raised money for a different Half the Sky Movement partner organization which fights to end the oppression of women and children worldwide.  She used her love for rock climbing to help others around the world.  You can follow her trip by clicking on the Lead Now Tour link above to find out more about what the trip meant to her and how they were able to help others.
      Ben and I are not professional rock climbers and as much as we would love to travel the world climbing to help others, it is not an opportunity that is available to us right now.  We do both, however, have interest and experience helping people medically.

Helping out in a small town in Ecuador

      In the past year and a half, Ben and I have been on three medical mission trips to combine our medical skills with our passion for helping others.  We traveled to Haiti, Ecuador, and Guatemala, bringing medical attention and expertise to those who need it the most.  Each trip was different and had its own experiences.  I find it ironic how we traveled to these poor countries expecting to help the local people, but somehow we are the ones who are helped.  The love and kindness these people show is a feeling that is indescribable.  Patients are hugging us, so grateful for the work we are there to do and the opportunity to be healed from a lifetime of pain.  We are hugging them back in awe of how they are so happy with so little, and grateful for the opportunity to meet such wonderful people.

Ben seeing a family in Guatemala

      Living in the United States, it is so easy to become consumed with money, things, and a reputation of having it all.  It is important to remember that these "things" are not what will make you truly happy.  Paige was able to use her rock climbing as a way to help others.  Ben and I have been given the opportunity to serve medically.  What kinds of skills or passions do you have that you could use to help others, whether it be locally or internationally? We are called to be great and do great things.  Find what drives you and get out there and do it!

Sara giving a local boy Albendazole to fight off stomach parasites.

Sara, Ben and Dad waiting for our next patients in Guatemala

Starting from the Bottom and Moving On Up

Some time ago, I watched an interview with professional climber Dave Graham.  He mentioned in the interview how quickly he was able to start climbing hard.  If I remember correctly, I believe it was about 8 months since he started climbing when he began climbing 5.14.  I think that is incredible natural talent to be able to climb that hard so quickly.  Unfortunately, Ben and I both have to work very hard to climb at the level that we do.

      Ben and I both started climbing at the very bottom.  Within a year of climbing, I was maybe climbing 5.10.  In my first climbing competition at the age of 11, I might have not even been able to climb that and in my first nationals, I was probably maxed out at 5.10+.  During the six year period that I climbed and competed, I had done one 5.11b outside but was mostly a gym climber so my outside sends were not impressive.  

      When I got to college, I stopped climbing for awhile, and it was about 5 years later that I started back into it again (when I met my husband).  Taking a break from climbing left me no power or endurance when I began climbing again, but I did still have my technique.  I had to start all over again, however, with my first time down to the Red leading and sending 27 years of climbing which is a 5 star 5.8+.  I slowly got stronger, onsighting 5.9 again and then 5.10a.  Nobody talks about the excitement from onsighting or even redpointing a 5.9 or 10a but I think it is important to bring up that sometimes you do have to start from the bottom and work your way up.  Natural talent for some people can only take you so far, and hard work will bring you the rest of the way.  

      Shortly into our relationship, Ben and I projected a 5 star 5.10c called Loompa at the Chocolate Factory to gain some endurance.  It is an overhung and fairly pumpy climb.  There were trips we took to the Red where Loompa was the only thing we climbed.  Some people might not understand this, but for us it was about getting back into the rhythm of climbing and gaining back what we both knew we had, together.  

Sara playing around on Loompa

      After sending Loompa, we worked our way to 5.11a.  Getting back to where I used to be was exciting for me, as I had always had a goal of sending a 5.12a outside, ever since I was younger.  Moving our way up, Ben and I were both able to send our first 12a together in 2012, 2 years after getting back into climbing.  This was an exciting time for us, as it had been a goal for both of us for awhile.  

      Ben and I made a goal for this year to try to send a 5.13a.  We trained all winter with Power Company Climbing and were both able to send Jesus Wept (12d) this past spring.  It was an incredible experience to work on this climb and send it, as long ago this grade was far out of my reach.  At the time I started climbing around age 11, climbing 5.13 was considered something only for the incredibly strong, and 5.14 was for the non human.  Sending a 5.13a would be a personal accomplishment for both of us and a previously only imagined goal that would finally be reached.

      Ben and I are currently training, and looking forward to seeing what happens this fall!  Climb on.

Sara sticking the redpoint crux on Jesus Wept

Ben pulling the first crux on Jesus Wept

Strength Training

We had our second session of phase 2 of training yesterday which is strength.  We started training last winter with  Power Company Climbing that our friend Kris Hampton runs. He writes training programs and blog posts about climbing.  The results over the spring were amazing and we decided to continue the training program through summer to get ready for the fall.  Our current program phase is intense and involves hangboard workouts with weights, something I have never done before.  Ben and I always thought we knew what training was.  We would go into the gym, do a few routes two times in a row, maybe do a 4x4 once every couple of weeks, and that was it.  We quickly found out once beginning the training program how intense training can be, but how beneficial it is in the long run.  Training pushes you physically and mentally which is good for all aspects of climbing.  You learn how to push yourself to the max even when you think you can't go any further.  If I want to send hard, I have found that I have to teach my body to climb this way, something that takes practice.  I am very excited to see the results that this season of training brings for the fall!

Click on the Power Company Climbing link above to see what the website has to offer!      

Our Marriage on the Rocks

We are Sara and Ben Berg and we have a marriage on the rocks.  Now this is not  your typical kind of marriage on the rocks.  Our marriage is great!  Our marriage on the rocks refers to rock climbing.  We are both avid climbers.  I, Sara, have been climbing for close to 17 years now, growing up competing when the Junior Competition Climbing Association (JCCA) still existed and taking some time off during different parts of my life.  Ben has been climbing for about 7 years.  We have lives outside of climbing; Ben is a firefighter/paramedic and I am student applying for Physician's Assistant school, but everything always seems to relate back to climbing.  Climbing is how we met (through our good friend Grady Bagwell who I used to compete with), how we built our relationship, and eventually how we got engaged.  We have many other things in common other than climbing, but it is wonderful to be able to share something like climbing together.  I hope you enjoy reading about our adventures, being a married couple, climbing, and life!